In fact, I was unable to marry without the benefit of religion in Canada.
The ridiculous religiosity of Americans is something that is taken for granted. Our more flamboyant preachers and their less temperate proclamations attract easy derision. The corollary is that we believe other countries are free from the effects of religion or at least its more authoritarian manifestations. Once, I accepted this view uncritically. Then I married a Canadian.
The federal system in Canada allows a great deal of autonomy to each of the provinces, so what applied to me in Québec may or may not have a parallel elsewhere in the country. In any case, we didn’t marry in Québec as my former husband had wanted. He, like much of the population of Québec, did not believe in God. Passionately nationalistic, he would have much preferred to have gotten married in his country than in mine, however the laws in Québec were written with the assumption that marriages would take place within the Church. He knew that many of his acquaintances at work were not believers and a few had recently married. He asked one woman if she happened to know how to go about getting married in a civil ceremony. “Oh,” she said, “I don’t believe either, but just get married in the Church. It’s what everyone does.” I would hear some variation on this time and time again. “Oh, of course we don’t believe, but just go along because it’s easier that way.” We married in a civil ceremony in the United States. Later I found out that, between the time we first talked about getting married and the actual event, the province of Québec changed their marriage laws to make civil ceremonies easier.
For an American who is used to the exact opposite, little institutional state support for religion coupled with highly fervent personal beliefs, Canada was little bit like going through the looking glass. Everyone assumed that I was Catholic and most people assumed I didn’t believe in God. An easy lack of belief was frequently coupled with religious rituals.
My ex-husband did have one acquaintance who was a fervent believer and frequently referred to me publicly as a “concubine.” Because we had not been married according to the rules of the Roman Catholic Church, we were not married. This insult made me seethe inside. It is really hard to imagine a comparable thing being said and let pass here in the United States.
One day, shortly after I moved there, we were driving in the car and I had one of the biggest shocks of my life. I saw a dead man hanging from a tree. As we moved, the perspective changed and it was apparent that what I saw was a life sized statue of the crucifixion that happened to have appeared superimposed on a tree. I never got used to see these realistic depictions of a dead man. They always made me vaguely uneasy.
At the time I lived there the political party in power was trying to get religious instruction removed from the public funded school. They didn’t succeed. My ex-husband related to me how in elementary school there were two children whose families were Jehovah’s Witnesses. When the other children colored pictures of the saints, these two children were not allowed to. Because they thought that coloring was fun, all the children thought that the two Jehovah’s Witnesses were being punished because they were not Catholic. My ex’s conclusion was that simply exempting the children of non-believers from religious instruction was not adequate.
Québec was the last Canadian province to have free, universal education and it was the interference of the Catholic Church that kept that from happening. As much of the western world became more and more secular, Québec, like Ireland, was seen by the Roman Catholic Church as a bulwark. Then in the late fifties and early sixties they had “la révolution silencieuse.” The province became better educated, less insular, wealthier and progressively less religious.
The dozen or so blocks of Park Avenue just north of Grand Central are lined on either side with office buildings. At lunch hour, and then again from six o’clock to seven, the sidewalks are filled with men. Surely women work in those buildings as well, but the crowd always has a distinctly male cast.


